The Steak Stands Alone at Goltz Kebap

The trendy “steak döner” of today’s Berlin is more accurately known as the beef yaprak kebab, featuring thinly sliced flank or shoulder in place of the usual Pressfleisch. It’s steak only in the way that a Philly cheesesteak is, but it’s still a significant upgrade.

Goltz, a citywide mini-franchise spun out of a burger stand in Mariendorf, not only stacks its own spits but bakes its own bread onsite, resulting in a fresh-tasting, shockingly beefy sandwich that deserves its €9 price tag. All it needs to shine is a sprinkle of sumac and a swipe of hot sauce; save the Kräuter and Knoblauch for your inferior meats.

• Goltz Kebap, Mariendorf, Charlottenburg, Wedding